On Royal Street, in N'Awlins

Time works differently in New Orleans. You are managed by the heat and the sun. Rise early and find the thin shadows. Walk St. Charles Avenue toward Tulane until you can't anymore, and a cable car saves you. Go out again, five-ish, showered, fresh, and find the shade; you'll be drenched before you do. Take a photo of a passing mule with the iPad because it's what you've got.

At night, the tourist crowds rope around the vampire guides, the ghost guides, the haunted houses guides. The high-steppers carry their neon green daiquiri glasses down Bourbon. On Frenchmen Street, the musicians pack in the crowds at the Apple Barrel, The Three Muses, The Blue Nile, and for the price of a drink, and maybe a CD, you are in, too.

In the morning, rise early. Tell yourself you can beat the sun.

 

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